Tuning Guide
By J.R. Maxwell
CENTERBOARD PLACEMENT
This is very important for pointing ability upwind.
Make sure that your centerboard goes to vertical (90 degree angle) when it’s all the way down, but no farther (that’s illegal).
If your board does not go to 90 degrees, you may need to re-arrange its placement in the trunk in order to get it to fit properly.
If your board goes past 90 degrees, you need to fix it. This may entail installing a stopper in the trunk with a piece of wood or rubber.
RUDDER AND TILLER
Check your pins and gudgeons. Make sure that they are fastened correctly without any cracks or worn spots on the transom of the boat. These can lead to leaks in the hull.
Make sure that the rudder has been mounted at the correct height so that the tiller does not scrape the deck as you steer. (If it is too low it can be fixed by installing a piece of metal or wood onto the lower side of the tiller. This will raise the resting height of the tiller a few centimeters so that it no longer hits the deck.)
Check the universal joint on your tiller extension. Look for stress cracks or fatigue from weather and use. This is an easy fix that can save a huge headache during a race.
SHROUDS
Check regularly for rust and possible breaks. Fatigued stays break easily in heavy air.
Make sure that they (your shrouds) are equal in length and complete with adjustable turnbuckles. This is crucial when setiing up your mast rake.
Attach tell-tales to side stays. These are very helpful for downwind sailing. They help with spinnaker trim and jibing angles.
HALYARDS
JIB HALYARD: This should be led to a position that is easy for the crew to use quickly. The foredeck (top or bottom) or the centerboard trunk is a good place to lead this. I recommend using a metal cam cleat (plastic ones give under heavy loads). Please get rid of the old wing cleats. They cause a lot of frustration for the skipper and crew alike.
SPINNAKER HALYARD: This should be led back to the skipper on the starboard side. The side or back of the centerboard trunk is a good place to put this. It is also possible to rig up a retracting system with bungee that will take up the slack halyard so that it does not get tangled.
JIB LEADS
There are many different setups for jib leads on Blue Jays. Some lead them to the centerboard trunk, others to the foredeck and still others to the outer railings. I recommend leading them to the centerboard trunk through a series of two barber haulers on each side.
The barber haulers play an important role in getting good jib shape in all conditions. One set should be placed on the inside of the foredeck (this one will pull the jib lead in and out and will also cause your crew to complain about the lack of room). The result—better jib control.
The inner barber haulers should be about 5 inches from the deck and the outer barber haulers should be about 6 inches from the inside combing.
TANKS
Make sure to check your tanks before you go sailing. Find out if they leak and if they do make sure that you drain them in between every race. Leaky tanks can often be the cause of a lack of boat speed.
A little silicone sealant put on the underside of the railings will solve a leaky tank problem.
RAKE
Set your mast rake to 19 feet, 2 inches. This is good setting for all conditions.
Measure from the op of the mast to top of the center of the transom.
MAINSHEET BRIDLE
Make sure that your boat has a non-adjustable mainsheet bridle.
The top of the sheave can be no more than 16 inches from the deck.
TAPE EVERYTHING
Do this especially when racing. Tape your rig dings, shrouds and anything that a sail could possibly tear on.
LOOK AT CHECK LIST IN BLUE JAY YEARBOOK
How to be fast in a Blue Jay
By Brad Gibbs
Reprinted from BJ BANTER 1992
Though I did not win the Blue Jay Nationals (2nd by 1.5 pts.), I made the pursuit of Blue Jay perfection an integral part of my sailing career. For several years, I refined my rigging, practiced my roll tacks, and rearranged my systems. The information provided in this article will hopefully be useful. The Blue Jay, like any boat, requires practice, lots of practice. The following, though, are some tips which might help you get around the course a little faster.
Proper care and maintenance of your hull is essential. Occasional wet sanding of your bottom rids your boat of unnecessary resistance. Using 320 grit or finer grade sand paper, wet sand your bottom, making sure to sand in the same direction as the water would flow. If you must bottom paint your boat use a hard paint such as Micron CSC which sands to a geicoat-like smoothness. The skeg of the Blue Jay should also be wet sanded. Tapering the skeg to class rules seems to be fast, though there is no need to taper it to a razor point.
The rudder and centerboard deserve the same (if not more) care than the bottom. Both blades should be especially smooth. Squared-off trailing edges are often more effective in reducing turbulence than rounded ones, but be careful to stay within the parameters of the class rules. A tight fit between the rudder and tiller is also very important. If possible, there should be no play in your steering (your rudder should not be wobbling against the tiller). Similarly, your centerboard should not be able to move laterally in the trunk. Any side-to-side play is slow because it causes unwanted turbulence. To avoid such wobbling in the centerboard trunk, you can tighten the centerboard bolt and/or put strips of old carpet or teflon tape on the insides of the trunk. Often, in older boats, the centerboard trunk itself wobbles. This should be repaired through the installation of reinforcing-ribs by a local boat yard or someone experienced in fiberglass repair. Besides the reduction of resistance which results from proper care of the underwater surfaces of your boat, wet sanding and tightly fitting blades are a great confidence builder, improving your mental preparation and trust in your boat's performance.
Though the basic rigging of the Blue Jay is fairly simple, there are some things you can do to improve the efficiency of your boat handling and sail trim. The mast butt should be placed in the front of the step to induce rake. I sailed with enough shroud tension so that the leeward shroud became floppy only over 8 knots. Mast rake, measured by attaching a tape measure to the main halyard and measuring the distance to the transom, should be 19 feet 2 inches. During the past couple of years, an increasing number of Blue Jay sailors have installed a fixed bridle to their traveler. I found the ideal height of the bridle to be 14 inches off the deck, but it is important to experiment with this height. The fixed bridle allows you to trim the main closer to the centerline without stalling the leech. When sailing upwind, always be wary of the pressure on your mainsheet, the flow of the telltale off your top batten, and make sure that the boom isn't inside the inner edge of the leeward rail. (See Spring BANTER 1999 for additional details by Bill Healy.)
Jib trim can be improved by using two sets of barber haulers which adjust both inboard/outboard and fore-aft trim. In light air, the jib should be closer to the centerline, and the foot fuller. As the wind increases the jib foot should be flattened and moved further outboard in order to open up the slot and twist the top of the leech of the jib. Recently, I had the opportunity to sail with a polyant, or box-cloth jib which had the potential of lasting longer than a dacron jib and maintaining its shape better due to its Iow-stretch characteristics. It is also recommended that the jib sheets be led to blocks and cleats located on the cuddy. This way, the crew can tack facing forwards and keep weight closer to the bow, thus reducing wetted surface in the stern and improving timing.
To assist in spinnaker handling, the key is to have the spinnaker halyard led back to the skipper, so that the crew is able to set the pole and pull the guy around as the skipper is hoisting. I found that installation of a micro block five inches directly behind the spinnaker halyard cleat to be an easy way to insure that when the spinnaker is hoisted, it will cleat itself. I also found it useful to lead the jib halyard back to the skipper. To dowse the chute, you simply have to grab the halyard in front of the block and behind the cleat to release. It is also helpful to tie a fairly large washer onto the shock cord downhaul just under the foredeck, which will prevent the pole from skying during a windy jibe.
Other small tips include tying your anchor to the bottom of the mast with a slip knot so that the weight is Iow and in the center of the boat, and marking the jib halyard when it is all the way up which will allow you to have it perfectly set as you round the leeward mark. Also, tying shock cord to your hiking straps so that they remain up and outboard will keep your head out of the boat while tacking, jibing or hiking upwind. The use of a deck-mounted vertical compass is extremely useful for determining wind shifts, tacking angles, and courses.
Once your boat is set up to your liking, get on the water as much as possible. The Blue Jay should always be sailed with a slight heel to leeward, except downwind in moderate air when you can sail with a windward heel. It is important to always keep your weight as far forward and as close together as possible, moving back only when it is choppy. Since the rudder is a barn door, minimize tiller movement. Learn to sail with your weight and sail trim. A good drill is to practice sailing rudderless, making sure to put the board halfway up. Though the Blue Jay is not the lightest dinghy, it is very responsive to weight movement. Boat handling and speed should be practiced. Though I hope these suggestions are helpful, properly rigging your Blue Jay is only the tip of the iceberg. Sail, sail, sail. -Brad Gibbs
Brad Gibbs was a former Indian Harbor Head Instructor and Brown University Sailing Team member, All Star College Crew Olympic contender and sailing enthusiast.